NIU Study Abroad 2015 Tanzania concluded with a spice farm tour and afternoon on a beautiful Zanzibar beach. Watch our farewell post here!
NIU Study Abroad 2015 Tanzania concluded with a spice farm tour and afternoon on a beautiful Zanzibar beach. Watch our farewell post here!
Our penultimate NGO seminar in the 2015 NIU Study Abroad and TDS Work-Study Program was a discussion with Mrs. Ume Kufum, the secretary at Catalyst for Women Empowerment in Zanzibar (COWPZ), who spoke with NIU students on Wednesday. The students were very appreciative of her time, and her personal story was inspiring to all of us. It is a testament to the power of lifting women into positions of self-direction, raising their level of self-confidence, and watching their lives transformed.
The NIU students and TDS board member Cynthia Nelson spent Sunday visiting Bagamoyo, the port for the East African Slave Trade, and today (Monday) we visited Haki Elimu (Tanzania’s premier education policy NGO) and the national library. We concluded our days in Dar with a delightful dinner hosted by Judge Steven Bwana and his family. Tomorrow we sail by ferry to Zanzibar!
The 2015 Tanzania Study Abroad class at NIU has come a long way since we first landed in Tanzania in May. This pic of Tiffany Powell introducing herself in Kiswahili language at Parents Day for Nyegina Secondary School on June 6 doesn’t convey the stress the students felt standing in front of over 500 parents and students to describe their families and studies at Northern Illinois University. On her left, Emily Stevens and Cody Sheriff are relieved they are done with this “examination” while on her right, Dillon Domke is intently trying to mentally recite his words since he is next.
Today is the last day in Musoma, and students are spending the day in final meetings with NGO stakeholders to finish their service projects and prepare to present their findings and options to various NGOs in Musoma and Mara Region at the Farewell Dinner tonight. That is their last course exam here, and they are busily working to make sure they pass with flying colors. The ambitious plans of eager students have been tempered by the realities of development work in real time, in the field. Their understanding of the role of NGOs in developing countries has deepened, and they have quickly realized how hard development work is, and why it takes dedication and commitment to find success.
We were blessed with a delicious dinner of Indian food cooked by Liz Mach, RN, who has dedicated her life to development in Tanzania, and who focuses on healthcare for women and children, fighting FGM, early marriages of girls, and other health problems. She is a role model for all of us, and with nearly 40 years of experience, she has taught us much in a short time. Thank you, Liz, for your hard work and dedication and service to humanity.
Wednesday, June 10, focused on the stratifications and competition in microfinance for small business development in the Musoma area. We visited three microfinance lenders in the morning: FINCA (a pioneering international nonprofit), Tujijenge (recent for-profit microfinance lender partnered with KIVA.org), and Musoma SACCOS (a Tanzanian credit union with offices nationwide). We were able to compare the different types of clients and loans across the platforms and see how competition among the lenders is benefitting borrowers. For example, FINCA has moved from weekly payback to monthly payback periods to allow borrowers more time to use the funds to purchase goods and then resell with profit to repay the loan. In the afternoon we met with 4 different borrowers in the Nyegina area who borrowed from AFREDA (another lender in Musoma area) and Musome SACCOS. They are using the loans to buy in bulk at wholesale prices and sell at retail to make profits that cover loan repayments and pay school fees. They look forward to further business management training from the new Madaraka Nyerere Library and Community Resource Center in Nyegina, which will be easier to access for many people than going all the way to Musoma.
Tuesday, June 9, the NIU students scattered to work on different service projects. Three students are working with Jipe Moyo to help them evaluate their programming for street children who now have shelters, 4 students are working with the Musoma Chamber of Commerce to improve its efficacy and promote economic development, 3 are working with a group of women in Mugango to help them develop a business and marketing plan for the new water filter manufacturing shop that NIU Emeritus Professor Manny Hernandez is helping build, another student is interviewing women and men about how UMABU can more effectively involve and promote women in community leadership, and another is documenting the projects and to develop marketing materials for UMABU, Nyegina Secondary, and TDS. The TDS board members and volunteers joined the Mugango group to observe the project developments. The day was very rewarding and satisfying for all.
Monday, June 8, NIU students and TDS Board members and volunteers engaged in conversations with the UMABU Board and Nyegina Secondary School Board, discussing issues of sustainability and mission drift. The students enjoyed having the opportunity to gain perspective and insight into development and the education system in Musoma. The day ended with the students reflecting on the cultural challenges of development.
TDS volunteers had a delayed flight from Arusha on (Im)Precision Air (its earned new title after Mary Okeyo also suffered from a canceled flight on her journey home to Mwanza!), but they made it to Mwanza and Fr. Kazeri and I met them and brought them safely to Musoma and they have moved into Epheta! Big day today (Monday) as we meet the UMABU board, the Nyegina Secondary School Board, and the Library Steering Committee to discuss progress and future plans! And the students get to introduce themselves again….in Swahili of course!
This video was taken this morning while we were on our tea break from Swahili classes. Enjoy!
As the Northern Illinois Study Abroad students made their way to Musoma on Sunday afternoon, part of the 13-hour journey took them through Serengeti National Park. Because of the late rains in Tanzania this year, students witnessed the great migration of wildebeest heading north towards Kenya. Nearly 1.5 million wildebeest and about 400,000 zebras migrate annually following the rains in search of green vegetation and fresh water. The two cars of students, Dr. Thurmaier and Fa. Leo Kazeri were stopped by the migration just long enough to take a couple photos and videos.
The 11 Tanzania Study Abroad students from Northern Illinois University landed in Arusha on Friday, May 29. They spent Saturday in Arusha at East Africa Ceramics (which is assisting TDS with a similar initiative for a women-owned business in Mugango), and at the Mwangaza Center for Teaching in Stop at Old Dupai Gorge for lunch was well worth it. Students liked the tour and the site. The picture shows the guide on far left and Fr. Leo Kazeri, our UMABU host and study abroad partner, on far right. Professor Thurmaier is taking the picture at the site where (in 1959) Mary Leakey discovered remains of the robust australopithecine Zinjanthropus boisei (now known as Paranthropus boisei). The specimen’s age of 1.75 million years radically altered the accepted ideas about the time scale of human evolution.
Had some thrills going through Serengeti National Park. First, we had to push our way through the great wildebeest and zebra migration….very cool; then 6 lions in a tree near the road, with a lioness crossing the road and walking next to the car before turning to go to the tree. Stop at Issenye with Fr. Kennedy Garusya was great food break. Finally arrived at Epheta Retreat Hostel about 9:15PM (13 hour trip). Students loved it, and are eager to start language training.
Journey to Tanzania – Friday/Saturday, July 5/6, 2013
A seven hour flight to Amsterdam along with a five hour layover kicked things off. From there, a jammed packed plane took us to Nairobi for yet another seven hour flight. The international flavor was all around me as I sat squeezed in the plane’s coach section. Across the aisle sat a French woman who was thankful one of the flight attendants spoke her language. Next to me in the center seat was an elderly Kenyan man who wore a baseball cap with the word “Texas” embroidered on the front and a replica of the Kenyan flag on the bill.
I’m still getting to know my travel partners, all of whom are volunteers for this TDS adventure (the students left with Dr. Thurmaier one week earlier). There’s Dan who will be my roommate once we reach our final destination. Jeanine is Dr. T’s wife and has done this trip before. Tricia is another returning volunteer having last been to Tanzania several years ago. Heidi is one of the architects who designed the library we will be building. Carol and Helen, both from Wisconsin and long time acquaintances of the Thurmaiers’, round out the group. Except for Heidi, we’re all in the 50 years plus age bracket.
The Nairobi airport is what one would imagine. Our layover here was only for 2 or so hours but they ended up having the most strict of security details. A small pair of scissors that made it all of the way from Chicago undetected was picked out by the one lone guy at the X-ray machine in the boarding area for our flight to Kilimanjaro. A problem with the plane’s paperwork delayed our departure from Nairobi, making the late hour even later. Finally, we made it into the airport in Arusha, Tanzania. This airport made Nairobi’s look plush and modern. We met our driver, Mr. Moosh, who took us to our hotel for the evening while playing and singing to the country and western music on the van’s radio. On Saturday morning, the wake up call came right on schedule. Our journey and our transit was to continue. I was feeling as if we’ve already been on an adventure with just the travels we have done so far. Yet, there are more travels to come before we start on the tasks we originally came for.
Mr. Moosh took us back to the Kilimanjaro Airport for our flight to Mwanza. Another travel snafu greeted us at the baggage check counter. For domestic flights in Tanzania, we each were limited to one checked bag. Of course, we each had two checked bags, most of which carried the school supplies and other donation items for those that live and go to school in the Musoma and Nyegina area that would be our final destination. The extra charge came in at $500 USD! Jeanine was ever the trooper, refused to pay a penny more when asked to, and then dug deep into her bags to fork over the cash. Most definitely this was an unanticipated expense not a part of the original budget and expense planning.
Father Leo Kazeri, one of the head priests at the Catholic Church and the parish that covers Musoma area, greeted us at the airport in Mwanza. Again, with each successive airport, the facilities and services became more and more primitive. This one in Mwanza was definitely at the bottom end of any that I have been to. But, what is one to expect? I think it is a great experience to see these types of places and what people deal with.
One van was used for our luggage, the other was for us volunteers. First, we had lunch at a very nice place on the lakeshore. Then off on a long and dusty 4 hour ride north to Musoma. Many people walking along the road, donkeys, goats and cattle all over the place, bicycles, screaming trucks and vans rushing by each other with only inches to spare, wildebeests off in the distance as we traveled along the western edge of the Serengeti, women and young girls with large water containers or bundles of wood on their heads, people washing themselves and their clothes in whatever puddle or pond they can find, basic living conditions with homes made of mud brick with thatched roofs, and trash and garbage strewn everywhere. We blew a tire about halfway through the ride. Our driver worked effortlessly to change it out while the rest of us stood in the shade of a nearby acacia tree while watching a young boy shepherd a herd of cattle in the nearby fields.
Finally into Musoma and to the Epheta Retreat Center that is located right on the shores of Lake Victoria. We arrived right at dusk so weren’t able to see everything about the place just yet. The staff fed us a simple meal of rice, fish and beef along with some pineapple and legumes. We were soon dead asleep exhausted after our long journey.
What a whirlwind of the past two days! An adventure was already had, yet we haven’t even begun the real adventure and purpose of our trip.
Tanzania, in retrospect: Part I
June 26th, the day before we left for Tanzania.
For the previous two weeks, I had been finishing last-minute tasks as the management intern for TDS. Working with our Tanzanian partner UMABU to confirm the hostel accommodations, travel arrangements, and the schedule changes had proved to be an exhausting, yet rewarding, exercise in inter-organizational relations across borders.
I stayed awake until 1AM the day of our departure, emailing last minute scheduling changes and documents and putting my hair into small twists for the month ahead. I was bone tired and fell into a restless sleep. I awoke at 6AM feeling as though I had never slept. It took me another two hours to finish twisting the last of my hair and I purposely made the twists tighter than usual so that they would last the entire month without needing to be redone.
Once I finished my hair, my thoughts turned to packing. I had already decided to take just one large suitcase and my backpack. My previous travel had always been for long stretches of time (at least 8 months) and I was used to my two large suitcases, backpack, and carry-on. Tanzania was different though; one month meant I needed to pack far fewer clothing and other miscellaneous items. However, as I started to pack, I realized that I’d need more room. Even though I intended to give away roughly 70% of my clothing, I wanted to leave room for any gifts and cloth I meant to purchase. With thoughts of colorful (cheap) kanga material firmly in mind, I dug out my carry-on. This proved to be a wise decision later on.
I packed in a hurry, splitting my belonging between the three bags. A last minute search for two missing SD cards and my cheap European cell phone put me behind schedule. Further setting me back was the unexpected failure of my tablet. It was meant to be my electronic companion overseas—an inexpensive substitute for the expensive MacBook I couldn’t afford to lose or replace. In its place, I took my mother’s tablet and the transferring of files for school and work, as well as large media files literally took hours to complete.
I rushed out the door and carried my bags to the car one by one. Afternoon rush hour was just beginning in Chicago and I was late leaving home. I jumped in the van, set up the GPS to guide me to O’Hare and drove away. I stopped at the stop sign and it hit me. I didn’t have my passport! I put the car in reverse back to my front door and jumped out. I rushed into the house and ran straight to my mother’s room, grabbed my passport and Yellow Card from her filing cabinet. Out the house I ran, jumped into the car, buckled my seatbelt, and took off. Traffic was lighter than expected and we reached O’Hare in less than 90 minutes. Preparing to leave had completely robbed me of my anxiety of the long travel days ahead. That anxiety returned as I found my seat on our first flight to Amsterdam.
Good news! Everyone is home safely and WITH ALL THE BAGGAGE! Which means everyone gets the gifts that were purchased in the last month.
We are now waiting at Amsterdam airport to board our last flight home to the US. Students took a trip into Amsterdam city for breakfast at a cafe and walk around, while Prof. Thurmaier met an old friend (from 5th grade) and sipped coffee on their balcony overlooking the river. Had to work through some frustrating ticket and boarding pass issues, but everyone now looking forward to being home, telling stories, presenting gifts, and showing pictures. Next post will be confirmation we are home.
Wednesday’s seminars included reflections on how and when we as outsiders 1. confront culture, 2. embrace culture, 3. try to influence culture in Tanzania. It is more content than a blog post can manage, but suffice it to say it was an excellent assessment of our month of observations. We agreed that it was worth our effort to confront female genital mutilation (FGM) and that we embraced the family and community culture that is so strong here in Tanzania. The afternoon seminar with Nazar Sola, an expert on local government decentralization reform, was excellent as well.
We are in 2nd day in Dar. We had great meeting this morning with HakiElimu (a Tanzanian nonprofit that made a pledge of books for the library once there is a place for them) and now we are at U of Dar es Salaam with a student mixer. Tonight we dine as guests of the Tanzanian Attorney General at his home.
After 3 intensive weeks of long days and good works, Sunday has been a day of rest and relaxation, with a spice farm tour and time at a private beach (essential during Ramadan in Zanzibar). We were pure tourists. Nelisha tried out natural lipstick, Rachel (left) and Kate tried out spicy new shades, and the group was willing to look goofy for a day with accessories made from palm leaves and banana leaves. A well deserved break as we start our last 5 days of study.
A beautiful day in Zanzibar! We had a very fine tour of Stone Town from our guide, Mohammed Kombo. It was the best tour I’ve had (of 4). Especially fun was watching the auction at the fish market. The afternoon seminar was with the leaders of COWPZ (Catalyst Organization for Women Progress in Zanzibar. They are energetically promoting women’s rights in Zanzibar and Tanzania. The conversation became even more lively when Fr. Kazeri asked the US women what they were doing for women’s progress in the USA. Among other comments, some noted that we had candidates for US Senate absurdly claiming that women’s bodies shut down and prevent pregnancy after rape, and we have legislatures ruled by men making reproductive health decisions for all women in their states. The students voiced concern that women in USA were too complacent and took their rights for granted, and that was a mistake. The exchange of ideas was rich and engagement was great. Hard to ask for any more from a seminar.
Friday was a long travel day for us, though successful. We had a french toast breakfast at 6:30 and gave the cooks at Epheta our thank you gift for being very creative at giving us tasty food for 3 weeks. They have been so responsive to our requests for variety and more fruits and vegetables.
We loaded the cars to carry luggage and boarded the bus. We were already behind scheduled 7:30 departure, but then someone forgot her phone and we had to turn around (only 2 minutes out, fortunately). (We’re not mentioning Rachel’s name though.) Then we had to stop to pick up Br. Masini at his school (he is going to Zanzibar with us). Now we are 1/2 hour late departing. Ahhhh, this is classic Tanzania, and we just needed to “go with the flow” as we say in the states.
We arrived in good time for the volunteers to go through security and check bags, with farewells said outside the airport. By the time the student group got through security and baggage check, the volunteers were already out the door and on their plane. We watched their plane heading for Kilimanjaro airport and on to Nairobi, wishing the Njema Safari! (a good journey).
The rest of us flew to Dar es Salaam. It was a bumpy takeoff—too much excitement for Nelisha’s first small prop flight! We finally landed in Zanzibar, and had our first meal at the outdoor food bazaar, aggressively courted by each of the food stands to try their kabobs of fish, chicken, somosas, etc. The last group got to bed about 10:45. A long and happy day indeed.
We had a fine last day in Musoma. Met with local government officials in the morning seminar, and faith-based NGOs in the afternoon. We had last minute shopping and a farewell dinner at the Afrilux Hotel.
Next up, volunteers headed home, student group to Zanzibar!
A game drive doesn’t get much better than:
When we returned to the campsite for breakfast (about 9am), we discovered that a pride of lions had caught a Cape Buffalo just next to our campsite while we were off watching the other lions, cheetahs, and leopards! It is such an amazing experience; no wonder the Serengeti is called one of the 7 Wonders of the World.
Video by Mark Biernacki, Music by African Tribal Orchestra
Sunday was for celebrating the 30th wedding anniversary of Kurt and Jeanine/Baba na Mama Anna. There was the 2 hour special Mass (9-11am) presided by Bishop Michael, followed by gift giving, choir performance, and lunch. Gifts to the happy couple included 2 live hens, which Jeanine graciously held for the couple. (They were donated to Epheta, which has many hen houses for eggs and dinners!) Then evening special party with other guests, complete with more gift giving, dancing, and dinner. We managed to get home by just after 11pm…..long day before the safari. (Still looking for a picture of the hen gifts to post….check back to this post for an update….;) Tomorrow is the Serengeti camping safari.
Video by Mark Biernacki, Music by African Tribal Orchestra
Today’s project work was a half day. We spent about an hour helping to construct the sign announcing the project (financing, contractor, etc) with each student pounding some nails, then erecting the sign. Later we were passing more sand with students, UMABU board members moving rocks, and NIU students Nelisha Gray and Lindsay Schoeder practicing masonry (pictured). The TDS volunteers spent the day visiting Rukuba and Irigia islands (which the students visited the weekend before). The island visit is an unforgettable experience, as one sees abject poverty at a level that is difficult to imagine and comprehend.
Video by Mark Biernacki, Music by African Tribal Orchestra
The cross cultural training sometimes goes from US to Tanzania! We discovered the wonderful cafe behind the Anglican Church that actually serves hamburgers…on a bun….and they taste great! They have food for all kinds of other tasty food too (we have 3 vegetarians in our group). Burude Ndago, our principal logistics manager, had never tasted a burger before. He liked it! (So did our bus driver, Deo, who also tasted his first hamburger.) Our grateful thanks to the Anglicans for having the Rehema Cafe. 21 pairs of thumbs up!
This was our first work day, and we spent most of the time moving sand from piles into the floor frame. By Thursday we will probably be pouring cement around the rocks that the workers will place on the sand base we laid today. We passed the sand by shovels dropped in cement bags and passed along a line of hands, each taking and passing to the next, until the end of the line where they sand was spilled onto the ground.
We were joined by boys and girls at the school, community volunteers, and a few teachers who were not in class or grading exams. Cory was dedicated to shoveling mixed concrete into buckets that were then carried by students to the new foundations for the walls. Cory, who is visually impaired, was redefining “impaired” in Tanzania for the Nyegina Secondary students.
It is a great example of a huge cultural difference between Tanzania and the US. Many families don’t have enough food for healthy children in Tanzania, so the thought of a pet dog is crazy to most people here. Still, I am very proud of the students. Each did a fine job. This was an important exercise to break down language barriers between the NIU students and the Nyegina students; the high school students will now feel at ease about trying to speak English—even poorly—because the NIU students were willing to risk embarrassment to speak Kiswahili to them. That’s the building block of cross-cultural engagement—taking risks and building trust to learn more about the other person.
Video by Mark Biernacki
Good News! The TDS volunteer group arrived at Epheta in Musoma this evening, about 6pm. All their baggage came with them! They are tired but in good spirits.
The student group spent the day on Lake Victoria, visiting two islands with fishing villages. There are many problems on these islands. One is supposed to be a protected bird sanctuary, but there are about 300 fishing folk living in a settlement with no permanent structures, including no schools, no clinic, no wells, no toilets. The other island has permanent legal residents, yet has enclaves of very poor people with very high HIV+ populations, prostitution, malnourished children, and other issues. There is a school, and there is a new kindergarten (funded by a German foundation), so progress is being made. The church congregation welcomed us warmly and provided a delicious lunch. The leaders introduced themselves, and then the students were challenged to introduce themselves in Kiswahili (as they had practiced in class all week). They need more practice, but they gave it a fine effort and that was what really meant a lot to the congregational leaders who had hosted us so enthusiastically.
Video by Mark Biernacki, Music by African Tribal Orchestra
Our last language class ended with students perfecting their introductory paragraphs and learning about the challenges of the Tanzanian education system. Standing next to me is Fr. Ed Gorczaty, director of Makoko Language School. In front of me are teachers Dismas, Daniel, and Sylvester. Left foreground is lead teacher Mw. Magdelena. The midterm exam for this portion of the course will be Monday, when the students must introduce themselves in Kiswahili before the UMABU board and the Nyegina Secondary School Board. They will do a fine job!
The 4th of July is not an event in Musoma, Tanzania, but we had reason to celebrate anyway. In addition to another beautiful day, and great progress in our language class, TDS Intern Brandi now has her missing luggage with her clothes and other things for a month! Notice the smile on her face!
The TDS volunteers are leaving from O’Hare today, joining us on Saturday afternoon (July 6th). Prayers and thoughts for their safe journey are much appreciated.
We now have updated contact phone numbers for Dr. Thurmaier and Brandi, if you need to contact someone in the student group or volunteer group.
*In Tanzania: Dr. Thurmaier Mobile: 011.255.682.198.561
*In Tanzania: Brandi Smith Mobile: 011.255.688.139.173
Please note the time difference: Musoma is 8 hours AHEAD of Chicago time. So 8am in Chicago is 4pm (afternoon) in Musoma.
There is now wi-fi at Epheta, Musoma! It was comical watching 6 students try to all get onto the wifi at the same time when we returned from language lessons today about 3:30. Needless to say, wi-fi traffic jam! There are still some kinks to work out, but hopefully fine tuning tomorrow will help.
Once they stopped looking at their screens for an hour, they went back to looking at each other in conversations about this, that, and the other thing. Unplugging was a good experience, but so is getting them back to email, Facebook, etc. Friends and family should expect more emails now.
We had a successful market outing last night (July 1) and several women found skirts and kangas. (Picture to be posted soon!) We have the wireless internet network set up and hope to have use tomorrow when the internet is “turned on” by the internet provider.
Now we are looking for a volunteer who could help Epheta set up a simple website to attract more guests (now that it can offer wi-fi!).
First Musoma Pub. Seminar is tonight at Musoma Club after dinner!
FROM THE STUDENTS: The first day of language lessons was really intense, but fun and interesting. It made us think about our own language and the meaning of certain words, for example, the way we express appreciation. One of the words we learned today was “karibu,” which means welcome. At first, we thought that it meant “you are welcome,” like the direct response to “thank you.” However, karibu is an expression of welcoming into a home or a place. So people always say it first and the reply is “asante” or “thank you.” This changed our perceptions of greetings in the states, and we realized sometimes we forget what a blessing it is to share the company of friends and loved ones. Karibu!
Update: Brandi’s baggage with clothes is now at Precision Air office in Arusha and we will try to get it on a bus to Musoma on Monday. Prayers and good karma are welcome! Otherwise, we are doing well and students are having a great time already. Stay tuned….
The NIU Study Abroad to Tanzania is now safely in Arusha. We had many delays and several miracles, but everyone is here, just missing 4 bags. (We ran out of miracles when they let Whitney into the country without a yellow fever vaccine, because we came through Naiobi (Kenya).
So today we are visiting the CBHCC water works, the Water Filter Factory, and Mwangaza Teaching Center. Then some shopping and changing money, and early to bed (after our first pub administration seminar).
In a little over 24 hours, students will start heading to OHARE International to meet with the study abroad group and catch the first of three flights to Kilimanjaro Airport in Arusha, Tanzania. Below, friends and family can find contact information of key members of the leadership team for the 2013 Experiential Learning with NGOs in Tanzania Program.
We ask that you please be patient with our communications from Tanzania. It is a Third World country, and sometimes the electricity is out, sometimes the server is down, sometimes the phone exchange is overloaded. And sometimes we are just going to be having so much fun that we are not going to pause to tell you what is happening! So……don’t worry if you don’t hear from us every day. We will do our best to post to the Twitter feed and Blog.
Tanzanian mobile numbers will be updated upon arrival in Arusha. Please note the time difference: Musoma is 8 hours AHEAD of Chicago time. So 8am in Chicago is 4pm (afternoon) in Musoma.
KT & Brandi
The countdown for the 2013 Tanzania Work-Study Program is racing ahead. The NIU and UW-Lacrosse students will leave for Tanzania with Prof. Thurmaier on Thursday, June 27. The students are busy writing their first papers and reflection letters.
The clock is ticking down but the fundraising by the Work-Study volunteers (and a few students!) is ticking up! As of today, their friends and family members have already contributed more than $7000. All of these gifts are applied directly to the library building costs. (The volunteers pay their own way to Tanzania.)
We had the final pre-flight SKYPE session with UMABU staff on Thursday, June 20th and excavation begins on Monday, June 24th! The rock wall that will hold the foundation and floor will be built before the volunteers begin “pouring the floor” on July 9!
Now is a great time for you to visit the Library Build page http://tdsnfp.org/library-build to meet the volunteers and choose someone to support with a generous donation.
Be sure to bookmark this page to follow the progress of the student and volunteer groups as they work together on the Library and Community Resource Center.
Tanzania Development Support has been active in the Nyegina Community for nearly 5 years. During those years we have been lucky enough to establish connections with some of the community’s most inspiring people: its students. This letter from Nyegina is an illustration of the life story of one of Nyegina’s students—an invitation into her world.
This letter is just a small sampling of the stories waiting to be heard from Nyegina. TDS is striving to create a happier next chapter for these students and their families.
There is really no way to capture the enormous sense of accomplishment that we feel as individuals who have climbed to Uhuru Peak, 5895 meters high (19, 341 feet). It has been the experience of a lifetime.
More telling, and more important to each of us who climbed, is that we–and you our supporters–have raised almost $30,000 to begin to build a library and community resource center that will provide a lifetime of experiences to thousands of girls and boys who will be able to read a book, study for exams, and excel as students in the primary and secondary schools in Nyegina and the Bukwaya Region.
This trek to build the library is just beginning. We are on the first leg of a longer journey. We hope you will join us on this trek: no ropes, spikes, or long hikes required! Please join us as we walk hand in hand with the boys and girls and their teachers who want to reach a new level of educational opportunity. Lucy, Isaac, and Jackson joined us on the trek to Uhuru Peak atop Kilimanjaro. Today they are back in the Nyegina Secondary School but they are still on a long journey to their next summit.
Allow me to share a brief conversation with a Kili climber that brought lumps to my throat. It was dawn on the last day in Musoma, before heading back to the US, and one of the Kili Climbers thanked me for bringing him to Nyegina–and to the school–to see the boys and girls and teachers and parents who are going to benefit from the $30,000 we raised.
To quote him (if not exactly): “I was just coming to climb the mountain,” he said, “that was my goal. But now I have a wholly different appreciation for what I did, what we did. Now I know that I have done something far more important than climbing a mountain.”
His simple statement was for me a morning prayer of thanksgiving that put the last 2 weeks in perfect perspective.
What makes TDS different from other development NGOs is that we go beyond just raising money to help people who have very little.
We bring the donors to Nyegina and we make personal, lasting connections that transform the experience of a lifetime into a legacy that I/you/we have made a difference in this one place in the world, and that has made the world a better place. Asante.
Finally, all of us who volunteer at TDS, and all of us who climbed Kili, once again thank Madaraka Nyerere for his gracious, humble, reassuring leadership on the climb, and his generous heart and willing spirit that allowed us to put this climb together and raise $30,000 for the library. Your generous gift of time and talents will last for a lifetime of experiences in Nyegina and Tanzania. Of that there can be no doubt. Asante sana.
Yesterday we had a shopping day at the market and the AIDS/HIV NGO.
Evening was a big birthday bash for Anna and Nadia, with a huge cake and Nyegina School Choir original songs of celebration of their birthdays.
Bishop Michael attended as well, and gave warm thanks for all of our work and our special relationship of not just giving money, but giving of ourselves by coming to Nyegina to actually work on the projects that we are funding.
This morning we are headed to the airport at Mwanza (a 3 hour car ride) with hops to Kilimanjaro, Dar es Salaam, Amsterdam, JFK and TX airports.
Hot showers are a high priority for many, as well as no more runny noses and coughs!
Pictures can be posted later, to go with the blog posts.
Update: It seems as though everyone is home safe and sound and with no missing luggage. Kurt is in Nairobi all week with Obuya Bakaka, a past trip member, and Nadia.
Yesterday we presented the Nyegina Community with a check for $26,000 to kick off the library and community resource center project.
As we arrived by car to Nyegina, we were greeted by primary and secondary school students and teachers lining both sides of the road, singing and dancing and welcoming us to the village. It was simply awesome! If you have ever been greeted by 2000 singing students, you will get the picture!
We are coming home as different people, not just because we managed to climb to the top of the African continent! Delivering the funds we raised to the Nyegina Community directly has been an emotional experience for each of us.
Also very emotional to some of us was touring the new girls dormitory. It was so uplifting to see the girls with beaming smiles standing next to their new beds in their new rooms. They are so excited to be in the new dorm.
Today we are touring the Community Alive/Tupendane NGO and the Nyegina market place (gifts for loved ones at home?) and then will visit Madaraka Nyerere at his home in Butiama.
Tonight we have a huge birthday/farewell bash with the bishop and our partners at UMABU. Friday we head home….
Asante sana. Thank you to everyone for your thoughts and prayers as we climbed Kilimanjaro. We all have many tales to tell.
For now, I want to report that we had a very successful safari through the Serengeti yesterday (Monday) and today (Tuesday). A highlight was the dawn game drive today (6-9AM), where we saw many lions and a beautiful leopard resting in a tree.
We are now safely in Musoma (on Lake Victoria). We will present a facsimile check tomorrow at the Nyegina School for $26,000 as a down payment for the library and community resource center. We are excited to tour the school, see the new dormitory filled with girls, and meet with the UMABU board and the Nyegina Seconday School board.
The amount of ibuprofen consumed is diminishing each day (not so true for the imodium…). We are all still tired and while it is not even 9pm here, most everyone is already in bed!
Thanks again for all of your support. If I have a chance tomorrow, I will add some pictures to the blog for everyone!
Baba Anna (aka Kurt Thurmaier)
We just returned from picking up the climbers. All arrived at the gate in relatively good shape and most were able to help the local economy by purchasing T-Shirts and art works from the vendors who congregate at the gate. They’re anxious to shower and celebrate. They had amazing success in reaching the summit by using the “Pole Pole” method: Slow, slow.
All are excited to read the Blog comments and eager to add their own personal update to the Blog.
It’s great to have them back!
UPDATES: Here are some pics from Uhuru Peak, the Roof of Africa! We didn’t all make it, and we made it to the peak in twos and threes.
We have one group pose with a lot of us, and we are missing a picture of Henry at the top (who made it in only 6.5 hours, WAY ahead of the rest of us!). Most of us made it to Uhuru Peak between 9 and 10am.
Madaraka, Isaac, Solomon (guide), Nadia [front row] Jackson, Pam, Kurt, Jeanine”]Then we had a 2 hour hike back down to base camp, a 2 hour rest, a bite to eat, then 4-5 hours of hiking down a dry stream bed “trail” to another camp where there was water. We got into that camp after dark, and exhausted after what amounted to a 20 hour day with a nap!
I’m sorry to report that we had no news from the mountain yesterday. Will let you know if we hear anything today. My understanding is that if the hikers make it to a certain point and cannot go on, they wait at the camp while others go up. They reconnect at the camp when the climbers descend again.
In the meantime, we’ve had excitement at Springlands Hotel and fun in the Moshi environs, in the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro. Yesterday we went to Huruma Hospital operated by the Sisters of Kilimanjaro Huruma Convent in Moshi. The Hospital was so interesting to see! We were shown around by the head Chaplain who knew both Fr. Kennedy and Fr. Leo. It’s a 300 bed facility, with census of 281 yesterday. 100 of the beds are for Maternity. There is a large Maternity wing where women close to full-term stay and where patients with potential complications may stay for months. Yesterday alone had 94 women expected to deliver!
We also were lucky enough to tour the sisters’ facilities. Two hundred nuns live there in an almost completely self-sustaining situation. They grow coffee and bananas, as well as all their vegetables. They raise sheep, cows, and pigs also. We spent time with two nuns in the sewing room, a large area where clerical vestments are made.
Then we went to Marangu Falls, a tourist attraction at high elevation at the end of another very long unimproved, bumpy road. An interesting legend surrounds the falls. We very much enjoyed our visit there.
We had a special invitation to dinner last night at the home of one of Father Kennedy’s recent parishioners, Ophelia Swai, who worked at a fashionable hotel in the Serengeti and now has her own business, “Come
Walk With Me.” You can learn more about this venture (and join!) on her blog: http://opheliaswai.wordpress.com/.
Joining us on this visit was Shirley Jahad, a National Public Radio (NPR) journalist who is researching for a piece on the proposed road through the Serengeti from Musoma to Arusha. She heard about Kurt and the TDS initiative and arranged to join us at the Springlands Hotel and travel with the group to the Serengeti and to Musoma. She went with us last night to Ophelia Swai’s house for dinner last night and today interviewed her for the piece. Having worked right in the Serengeti, Ophelia has special insight into the road situation.
Off for more adventures,
Update: Today we went to Arusha where we intended to visit a national park but changed plans when we saw there is a big tourism convention going on this weekend. It was too great an opportunity for Shirley to miss, so
we went there to help her with her research. As usual, we had a great day with surprise adventures.
BUT, no news still from the mountain. We know they expected to start hiking at Midnight and reach the peak for sunrise this morning. We understand it is so cold at the summit one doesn’t stay too long there. By now, 9:20pm [1:20pm U.S. Central Time] on Saturday night, they should be tucked in their sleeping bags at their one and only campsite on the way down the mountain.
We plan to leave the hotel at 9:00am [1:00am U.S. Central Time] on Sunday morning and drive to the gate where they are expected to begin arriving at around 11:00am [3:00am U.S. Central Time]. We have invited Shirley, the NPR journalist, to join our small welcoming committee. Should be another exciting day for the
What questions do you have for Georgette about her visits in northern Tanzania? Post your questions or comments below.
We had news this morning from the climbers: one is coming down the mountain today, aborting the climb. Staying at the Springlands Hotel turns out to be a very good thing, which Madaraka arranged for us. Springlands is owned and operated by Zara Tours, the outfitter guiding our people on the mountain. So if anyone gets in trouble, we find out quickly. Lucy [one of the Nyegina Secondary students] has been ill on the mountain for 2 days and is being led back down. At 2:00pm Father Leo will go with someone from Zara to one of the mountain gates (a different and closer one than we checked in with) to pick her up. She should be back at the hotel by 5:00pm [9:00am U.S. Central Time], I estimate. Other climbers are reported being very tired with the possibility more will be coming down before they reach the summit.
Leroy and Father Kennedy are off to Arusha to visit the Safe Water Ceramics of East Africa (SWCEA) (also called Safe Water Now) facility where ceramic water filters are made.
Update: The guides are taking Lucy back down using a different route and so will exit through a different gate than the one they started at. They left the hotel at 3:45pm (7:45am U.S. Central Time).
Update: Lucy arrived about 6pm [10am U.S. Central Time] with Fr. Leo. She is with me now. She had a nice big dinner and then used Kurt’s Africa phone to call her mother. Now we are setting up a new email account for her and reading emails. Lucy said she climbed to 5000 meters before coming down. That’s 16,404 feet!
Kurt phoned Fr. Leo to say it is very cold where they are. They can look down and see the lights of Moshi. They are hoping the moon comes from behind the clouds to see more.
Not all of our volunteers are climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro. Two, Georgette (who you’ve heard from in previous posts) and Leroy are travelling to sites throughout northern Tanzania. If you’ve joined us for past volunteer and study trips, you’ll be familiar with some of these places already.
No calls from the climbers today, Wednesday June 6, but we do have a report from the adventures of Leroy and Georgette. Among the Non-Governmental Organizations (NGOs) Father Leroy aranged to visit with them was the Community Based Health Care Council (CBHCC) which he was instrumental in founding. Accompanying Father Leo, Georgette, and Leroy was Father Kennedy.
The small group drove from Moshi where they are staying, to Arusha to visit the headquarters of CBHCC and meet with Engineer Shija Mlingwa who outlined the organization’s goals and accomplishments. One of their main projects is the construction of gravity water supply to seven villages south of Arusha and health, sanitation, and hygiene education to community and schools in those rural communities. The engineer devoted the afternoon to driving us to three villages to view firsthand the completed first phase of the project. We saw the pipes that carry water to large tanks and the central spigots where the women come to buy water for 10 shillings (approx. 1/2 cent) per bucket. In the absence of this water supply, the women would typically walk for hours to a water source of questionable quality.
We also went to a Massai market in one of the villages – quite unlike any market I’ve ever seen!
What would you like to know about life in northern Tanzania? Post your questions or comments below.
Though we were told that phone contact would be unlikely in the first two days of climbing, we were delighted to get a call from Kurt this afternoon. He reported everyone to be in good spirits and good shape on the trail, in spite of a late arrival at camp last night. The last hour before camp was spent hiking in the dark, no small feat according to hikers who have just come down from the mountain. Kurt said they arrived in camp at 8:00pm, settled in, ate dinner and hit the sleeping bags at 10:30pm.
Their second day on the trail began at 6:30am; they left the campsite to begin the day’s climb at 8:00am. Let’s hope they reach the next camp before nightfall!
Have a question for the climbers? Post them in the comments and we’ll ask the next time we are in touch with them.
The group is comprised of 14 climbers, 10 from the U.S., 2 students and their teacher from the school, and Madaraka Nyerere.
In addition to those 14 climbers, there’s me (Georgette Rocheleau) and Leroy (an Illinois friend of the school). We will be traveling around Arusha and Moshi with Father Leo and Father Kennedy.
We 16 and the two fathers all arrived at the Springlands Hotel in Moshi on Sunday evening (June 3), all having had uneventful, if painfully long, travel. After a short meeting, the 16 retired to their rooms with plans to meet in the dining area for a 6:30am breakfast. A helpful rooster began crowing (or whatever it is roosters do) at 5:00, so few overslept.
The outfitter, Zara Tours, provided each hiker with any gear needed for the climb. By 9:00 all duffel bags were carefully placed in large, yellow plastic bags. The 14 Hikers were ready. The 28 guides, porters, cooks, and assistants were on hand or already in place on the mountain, prepared to support the 14 in their quest to be Kiliwarriors and summit the great mountain.
Leroy and I were delighted to be able to accompany the climbers on the trip to the starting off point of their hike along the Lemosho trail. We had different ideas about how close the Springlands Hotel might be to the trailhead, but I don’t think anyone fully expected the adventure we embarked on.
Our first stop was at an equipment shop to pick up a couple of items the students need for the week: sunglasses and a head lamp. Only sunglasses were found there. Farther on we stopped at a grocery store where we purchased 36 1 1/2 liter bottles of water for the hikers’ first day supply. Nearby, headlamps were found.
Then began the RIDE. We were in a vehicle reminiscent of an army transport vehicle outfitted with bus seats. A metal ladder up to the back of the vehicle allowed entry and exit. At first we were on paved roads, happily enjoying the scenery.
Then the roads were unpaved and we talked of bumpiness. Kurt [Thurmaier] poo-pooed our assessment, telling us we didn’t know bumpy roads in Tanzania yet.
Another hour rolled by. We reached the Registration point around Noon, where each hiker, porter, and guide sign-in before the ascent. Boxed lunches were distributed and consumed.
After that point travel became rougher and slower. After another hour of rougher and slower driving, travel again became rougher and slower. Kurt conceded this was indeed the worst road he has been on in Tanzania! At one point our vehicle became stuck in the deep, muddy ruts.
After many futile, diesel burning attempts to move forward, the lead guide agreed with our suggestions that we get out.
The Zara guys in our vehicle and another 6-8 guys from the Zara support vehicle behind us laid pine boughs in the ruts for traction enough to allow the driver to plow through. Directions, instructions and advice filled the air
At 3:30pm the truck reached the Lemosho trailhead and the HIKE began.
Our group of intrepid volunteers will depart today, June 2, for Tanzania to begin their journey to the top of Mt. Kilimanjaro, Africa’s tallest mountain. They will head to Kilimanjaro International Airport and arrive in Moshi on Sunday evening. The next day, after breakfast on the morning of June 11, they begin their ascent.
Supported by their friends and family, this group has raised over $24,000, which will be used to kick off construction of a Library and Community Resource Center in Nygeina village, Tanzania. This project is a partnership between Tanzania Development Support, Architecture for Humanity Chicago, and UMABU, a Tanzanian grassroots organization.
Meeting the group in Tanzania are Lucy and Isaack, two students from Nyegina Secondary School and one of their teachers. They are also climbing with the group and hope to raise $5,895—one dollar for each meter of the mountain they will climb. So far they’ve raised $2,310.
Be sure to check back with this blog for more updates from the climb.
The girls’ dormitory is finished. After three years since the project started, we have raised over $150,000 to build a dorm for 160 girls. Furnished with 80 metal bunk beds and a sanitation block, which holds the school’s first flush toilets and running showers, we are proud of our achievement. Having passed the Tanzanian Government inspection, the Form 5 wing is expected to open later this April.
The girls’ dormitory on the Nyegina school campus is nearly complete. Construction began in 2009 on the two-wing structure which will house 160 girls in forms five and six, the U.S. educational equivalent of fourth and fifth year of high school. Graduating from form six will allow students to go directly to teacher training college or university. The dormitory is part of an expansion program that will enable the school to offer education at this advanced level and the program will begin in the spring of 2012. TDS has provided financial support for this project through contributions from our generous donors. In addition, TDS volunteers traveled to Nyegina in 2009 and 2011 to assist with the actual construction.
With the girls’ dormitory near completion, we are undertaking another opportunity to support the community’s efforts to create a 21st-century educational facility on the Nyegina School campus. Plans are being drafted for a community library/resource center. Architecture for Humanity Chicago is our newest partner and has agreed to undertake the design of a combined library, teacher enhancement center and computer lab. The facility will serve the Nyegina School, a nearby government primary school and the village of Nyegina. Julie Force and Laura Bowe, architects representing Architecture for Humanity Chicago, were among the volunteers who traveled to Nyegina in July 2011. Julie and Laura surveyed the proposed site at Nyegina School and met with Father Leo Kazeri, UMABU representatives, Nyegina School officials and other stakeholders in the project to develop the plan. This will be only the second library in this district of 2 million inhabitants, and a crucial piece of infrastructure for the schools and the community.
Partner organization update: In August 2011, the Northern Illinois chapter of Engineers without Borders made another onsite visit to gather information for the design of a more energy efficient cooking system that would reduce the fuel consumption. After review of the findings they chose to install the Lion Stove which is designed to be energy efficient and a Solar Thermal Water Heater which uses solar power instead of wood to heat water. Both the stove and the water heater system are designed to be low maintenance and self-sustaining. Local maintenance workers will be instructed on upkeep. A group of EWB students will travel to the Nyegina campus in January 2012 to install the stove and water heater system.
My trip to Tanzania was an unforgettable experience of contrasts and differences. The people we met were so welcoming that I felt a connection with them almost immediately. The children have an insatiable appetite for learning and are very knowledgeable despite the fact that they don’t own textbooks for school. The local government officials (with whom we met) were obviously reactive rather than proactive and had an attitude of complacency. Consequently, the infrastructure is undeveloped resulting in limited access to clean water, unpaved roads that are almost impassable because of ruts and boulders, a non-existent landline phone system that, among other things, minimizes the effectiveness of any emergency response system that may exist.
The poverty is so extreme and widespread that it is difficult for me to comprehend how people can live that way. The one room huts that dot the roadside at great distances from each other don’t have running water or electricity. The people have to walk long distances to find wood for the stove and water for cooking, bathing and laundry. The only available water often times is dirty and contaminated so it must be boiled before use. The physical labor is assigned to the females and they seemingly assume the role without argument. They walk home carrying five gallon jugs of water or 40 pound bags of grain on their heads because there is no other means of transportation. It’s a very hard life. I don’t know how they continue to hope and cope.
There are people within the community who are educated and aspire to a better way of life for themselves, for the children and for the future of the country. There are civic and social organizations that are making a difference in the lives of the less fortunate, such as the disabled, children orphaned by HIV/AIDS and women and children who have been diagnosed as HIV positive. Many of these organizations receive funding from NGOs in other parts of the world. For example, one of our partner organizations, UMABU, receives financial support from Terre des Hommes, an organization headquartered in Geneva, Switzerland.
The group of people with whom we (Tanzania Development Support) partner have a clear perspective of what they must do to improve their plight in life. They recognize that education of the children, particularly the girls, is critical to a promising future for all. They are educated and have an unshakable determination to do what needs to be done to change. I was particularly impressed by the women teachers at the school who told me that they must teach the girls to respect themselves and believe that they deserve a life that is far better than fetching wood and water.
While I was there I noted that social behavior was often dictated by cultural beliefs and traditions but I wasn’t there long enough to learn what these beliefs are. Next time I go I hope to get a better understanding of the cultural influences.
I can’t find the words to describe the gentleness and kindness of the people we met. The beauty is in their hearts and souls and is reflected in their eyes and smiles. The smiles are wide white grins that light up their faces and connected to my soul. That’s the picture that comes to mind when I reflect on the experience.
TDS Board Member and 2011 Volunteer Trip Member
Our original logo and visual branding was designed and very generously donated in 2008 by Jarret Byrne and Solvo Media. TDS was a brand-new organization then, with a smaller board of directors and an uncertain future. At that time, this logo and the website it lived on served TDS very well. It even challenged TDS to look toward the future.
Today, TDS has sent two volunteer trips to Tanzania, completed a major construction project, raised and used nearly $150,000, and sends out a quarterly newsletter to 450 supporters. TDS has grown to include the experiences, work, and hopes of hundreds of volunteers, donors, and partners. When board looks at the communications we send to our friends, old and new, something is missing. What’s missing is a visual representation of the richness of experience that TDS now encompasses.
I’ll admit that I fought against a logo re-design for some time, knowing the work it would take to implement it and corollary changes to the visual branding. I think it wasn’t until the summer of 2011, when I saw the pictures coming back from the study trip in Tanzania – the same trip I took in 2009 – that I was convinced that the rich experience I’ve had as a TDS volunteer wasn’t unique to me. The experience of many more volunteers needed to be expressed and celebrated, and the current logo just couldn’t do that. We had surpassed the challenge presented by our first logo.
Our new logo was designed by University of Minnesota student Carlye Kussard and Edgewood College graduate Katrina Ervin, with input on typography selection by graphic designer Victoria Pater. When they volunteered their creativity and experience, I challenged them to express this in the new logo:
“We see TDS as distinctive because it forms very close relationships with other organizations, people, and communities in Tanzania. We see ourselves as partners and are very committed to our partners in Tanzania, working through set-backs as they arise. Our projects are the priorities of communities and organizations in Tanzania. We work from their strategic plans and join in the visions they have for their own communities. We are committed to having our volunteers and donors experience the communities in which we work firsthand, and to form long-term relationships between individuals. We also see our role as informing others through experience and in a nuanced way, which is why we take student and volunteer trips to Tanzania. During these trips, we don’t try to tell people what to think, but provide first-hand information, and ask them to reflect on their experiences and share them with others.”
An impossible assignment, surely!
Over a few months, we went back and forth over symbols, colors, and ideas. The board was originally presented with four initial concepts and selected one to be further developed. The board and other volunteers made further selections on typography, color, and minor style aspects and selected this for the new TDS logo.
Communicating a nuanced view of Tanzania is an important challenge. Tanzania is generally not well understood by Americans or Europeans. Because of this, there are few symbols of Tanzania that are easily recognizable to TDS’s donor and volunteer audience. Something that is quite striking throughout Tanzania is color. There are parts of Tanzania that remind me of the foothills of Colorado, where I grew up, but nowhere in Colorado have I ever seen clothing, food, and buildings with such vibrant and memorable colors. Color is how this logo authentically connects Tanzanian experience to a visceral experience for our supporters at home.
We hope you like this new logo to represent the experience that surrounds TDS and our hopeful future. We plan to roll the logo out in our communications towards the end of this year. Since TDS is built on the work, skill, and support of our volunteers, donors, and partners, I welcome all of you to share your feedback on this new logo with me in comments below, on Facebook, Twitter or at email@example.com.
Tracey Swanson, Chair
TDS Volunteer Marketing Committee
I am so pleased to report that the donations from many friends and family members have helped us reach our goal of raising $4000 to finish buying the materials to finish the girls dormitory. Thank you to all who have contributed to this project! We’ll be posting lots more pictures from the trip in the near future. Stay tuned!
Only 24 hours left until the students leave Tanzania and we only need $700 to reach our goal of $4,000 to finish buying the materials for the dorm. Please help us reach this goal with your donation today.
Bagamoyo was a successful outing! We ended the day with dinner by the sea side hosted by several professors from Dar University.
The students had the chance to have dinner with Tanzania Court of Appeals Justice Steven Bwana last night. He was gracious to host us as his house for a wonderful meal. The students enjoyed asking him questions and learning more about Tanzania’s government and politics.
Today we are off to explore Bagamoyo, a historic slave trading town.
I am so excited to report that we have reached the $3000 mark toward gathering $4000 in donations by Saturday to buy the materials needed to finish the dormitory for 160 girls at the Nyegina Secondary School. The generous gifts, small and large, are adding up to a wonderful future for girls who are excited about attending 2 more years of school with your help. Please consider helping us reach the final $1000 by Saturday. We are so close!
We are now in Zanzibar, and yesterday we met 2 fantastic NGOs. The first is a group of women who have been an NGO for 20 years, Catalyst for Women Empowerment in Zanzibar. Members of the group, and alumni, include members of parliament in Zanzibar and the Union government, as well as doctors and other professionals. A second group is only 5 months old, a grass-roots, community-based organization (CBO) that is about 62 women and men dedicated to turning their neighborhood in Zanzibar/Stone Town around, fighting school dropouts, drug addiction, and getting their girls to stay in school through secondary school graduation. They were inspiring. Tomorrow we head back to Dar and will spend the evening with a Tanzanian judge who grew up in Etaro, a village neighboring Nyegina; he has recently been appointed to the international criminal court and he wants to say thank you to the students for volunteering to help build the dormitory in Nyegina.
We are making a difference here. Please help us finish this dormitory. It means a whole world of difference to the girls who will live in this dorm for years to come.
We already have over $1500 in donations to finish the last $4000 in materials for the dorm! Thanks to all who have contributed.
Please take a moment to donate toward finishing the dormitory. We only need another $2500 in contributions for this short campaign!
We are working hard today, our last to work on the dorm. We are hauling sand for mixing cement, painting walls, and filling cement around the window frames. We are excited to be seeing progress toward the completion of this dormitory wing.
Thanks for all of your support, spiritual as well as financial! You can use the link below to make a gift online using PayPal:
Yesterday volunteers and students worked on painting the dorm.
Dan worked on staining some of the dorm’s new chairs.
We are getting close to finishing the Form 6 wing of the dormitory. We want to raise $4000 in the next 5 days to buy the materials to finish the structure itself. Please be one of the friends and family members who can contribute $40 to help finish this wing. You can donate at www.tdsnfp.org and click on contribute. We can do this!
This is a quick shot of some group members moving into our Serengeti Camp after our afternoon game drive on Monday.
We just returned yesterday from a very successful Serengeti safari. The highlight was a dawn drive on Tuesday (12July) where we found a pride of 20 lions after a successful gnu (wildebeast) kill. There were about 10 mothers and 10 cubs feasting (not at the same time!). We also saw this beautiful cheetah (picture) with her eyes on breakfast for her and her 2 cubs.
We have three days left before departure. The remaining seminars are with environmental NGOs today, then faith-based NGOs on Thursday, finishing with a mining town and miner care houses on Friday. Dorm work continues, as do our many other projects here.
Electricity is still a big problem, and email/internet access is a big problem with all the rolling blackouts. Sorry for the intermittent communcations.
Ben working on building a window.|
Frank and Jill work on the dorm’s roof.|
Tina passes bricks with one of school’s girls.|
Zach and Liz mix cement with Fr. Kazeri.|
|We got to see the new bunk beds yesterday. In each room there are four new beautiful bunk beds.||December 2011 Update: We are currently gathering contributions to buy these same beds for the other wing of the dormitory. Please consider making a contribution today.
|Outside of the new form five girls’ dormitory. What a great sight to see!|
|Today the study abroad and volunteer group meet with TDS’ partner UMABU. They sat with us for two hours informing us about their nonprofit and sharing their experiences.|
We had a great visit to the school today, and were able to walk through the Form V wing and the sanitation block. It was an emotional moment for those of us who have been working so hard on this project for almost 3 years. What a wonderful sense that we are making a real difference in the lives of these girls.
Walked through the school during their lunch break so there were lots of small groups clustered around our NIU students and volunteers. The students at Nyegina Secondary are very happy to see us, and we are happy to be here.
Pictures of the dorm and the beds will follow. VERY cool!
Obuya Bagaka reports that the TDS volunteer group has safely landed at Nairobi. Only lost one bag (sorry Nick). It will be shipped by bus tomorrow to catch up to Nick in Musoma.
They leave Nairobi at 7am tomorrow (11pm Sunday night in Dekalb) for Musoma, Tanzania!
Baba Anna (Dr. T.)
We finished our Kiswahili studies on Friday. Saturday we visited the islands of Irigia and Rukuba. The poverty there is striking. We had some intense discussions last night to reflect about what we saw.
Sunday (today) we had a day off, so we walked into Musoma Town, 1 hour each way. Shopped in the market, and had lunch in the garden of Matvilla Hotel. Walked back with a stop at the Polisi Club by the lake. Relaxing day and much needed after an intense week.
I wanted to send pictures, but it is not very feasible at the moment. This is (clockwise) Zack, Dan, Liz, Frank, and Mary (bottom center) quizzing each other Thursday night for Friday’s last session of Kiswahili class. It was a great experience for all of us.
Everything is going well here except that every day we have rolling blackouts of electricity and that is causing us major headaches with connection to internet, etc. When we have electricity, the area with the server does not, so we have no internet. When server has no electricity, we have no internet even when we have electricity. There is no end in sight for this. So we are using an alternate means of connecting, but it is very expensive.
Thanks for watching the blog. Will try to post something with pictures soon.
We had a great first day of language training today (Monday). The 9 of us are split into 2 class sections. We have 3 instructors who rotate between the two. THen in the afternoon the three of them presented cultural training on greetings and being invited into homes. It was very intense and all of us are really pleased with the day.
BTW: I have a phone number correction for Tanzania. I had to get a new SIM.
The correct number for my Tanzania Phone is 011.255.785.9888.49 .
Friends and family and travelers should make that correction on the contact sheet we sent.
Electricity was not available in the city of Musoma most of today, so internet is now back this evening.
Here is a picture of our visit to the water filter family business in Arusha. This is connected to NIU because Dr. Manny Hernandez helped set up the factory with the family that runs it. We are hoping that we can set up a similar operation in Musoma to provide safe, clean water with no energy requirement of the family.
We also stopped at Old Duvai Gorge en route from Arusha to Musoma on Sunday, 26 June. This is a picture of us at the site where Mary Leakey discovered early hominid fossils that began to change our knowledge of where we came from…
I am pleased to report that we arrived this evening at the Epheta Retreat Centre, safe, sound, and pretty tired. It was a long 13 hour day, but a happy one.
We left Arusha at 7:30 this morning (an hour late).We made stops at Old Duvai Gorge (discovery site by Mary Leakey and others of some of our earliest ancestor fossils), the different gates to get through Ngorogoro Crater and the Serengeti Park, and Fr. Kennedy Garusha’s home for a last drink and WC break before the final push to Musoma. Along the way, we had an elephant on the road with us in Ngorogoro, calmly cleaning away overhanging branches on the road, plus in the Serengeti we saw most everything except the big cats and a rhino (which almost nobody is lucky enough to see).
Br. Aquiline welcomed us warmly to Epheta with a dinner ready, and everyone (but me) is taking showers to wash out the dust. Tomorrow we start our first Kiswahili language lesson at 8:30 (12:30PM DeKalb time). We are all excited about the prospect.
More tomorrow, hopefully with pictures! Epheta has a brand new high speed (100mb) internet service! Yes!
Tin Roof Sundaes are one of my favorites, but seeing the roof on the first unit for 80 girls in our dormitory project is a real treat. We have raised over $70,000 on our way to building this dorm for 160 girls. We have another $100,000 to raise, and we need lots of help, but we can be very proud of our progress so far. And the girls will be able to move into the new dormitory as soon as the walls are plastered, electricity installed, and other details. Can’t wait to see those pictures!
The roof takes shape on Unit 1 (for the first 80 girls in the dormitory, and their matrons). Roof rafters carried by students to the work site are in place over the matrons’ rooms and the longer section for the students.
Here are three pictures from Musoma, Tanzania from our group’s trip.
This is a picture of our group’s first visit to the future site of the new girls’ dormitory. In the picture we are standing on the base of the foundation. The stones piled on top will be fitted together on top of the dirt (as they are on the walls) and then very thin concrete poured into the cracks and on top. During the next two weeks the group, along with the hired workers, and teachers and students at the school poured the concrete for the entire foundation of this building using a bucket brigade of small pans about the size of woks. On the far left of the picture you can see some workers sitting under the trees, in the middle is a group of teachers from the school talking to the construction foreman, and on the left are people from the student group.
The Diocese of Musoma held a choir competition in conjunction with the celebration of our arrival in Musoma. This cow, along with some new drums, was given as the prize to the winning choir. Lucy Carter from the student group is pictured here making friends with the cow. Shortly after the competition, the cow got loose and had to be recaptured.
This picture from inside our bus shows a nun we gave a ride to the Diocese Center in Musoma. As with many things usually provided by local government in the United States, public transport falls primarily to the private sector. In most of Tanzania, those without their own private transportation (the majority) can pay to use a share taxi called a dala-dala (mutatu in Kenya). Although the combined size of the student and service groups made our bus fairly crowded, it was quite spacious compared to the dala-dalas which are packed with as many people, cargo, and animals as possible.
It is offical, we are home and the post trip blues have set in. A couple of us had airline issues which caused our luggage to take a different route than we did. The amazing thing is that after being together for a month, Dr. Thurmaier recognized my bags and he and Jeannine grabbed them in New Jersey while we were in Toronto. It made me think about how we worked well together, forming a bond that often happens when a group is established to work towards a common goal. It is a good feeling to have the opportunity to be productive for a community who appreciated our efforts so very much. I miss the friends we made there as well as the members of our group. We did more than a fair share of laughing, eating, experimenting, and trying to learn a new language and culture together. It was an incredible opportunity and I am looking forward to sharing the highlights of the experience with others in my home, school, and work community.
OK, we left Nairobi on Sunday night, headed to home.
Little did we know that we were diverted to Bunjubura, Burundi to deliver a critical part for a Brussels airliner that hit an antelope either landing or taking off. So we left 2 hours late from NBO becase the incoming flight was delayed getting the part to be delivered to Burundi. Then there were all the people that had been stranded in Bunjubura , Burundi since Friday waiting to get to Brussels.
So we ended up missing all of our connections in Brussels, and are spending the night in Brussels, courtesy of Belgium Airlines. After getting checked into the Sheraton, we all had a nice afternoon walking around the city (broken up in different groups). The youngsters are headed back into the city for samples of Belgian beer and night life. We old timers are going to try the beer at the hotel and get 8+ hours of sleep.
About half of us are getting home via Toronto, arriving ORD about 15:15 via United on Tuesday afternoon.
The rest of us don’t arrive until 17:25 via Newark on American Airlines.
Sorry, don’t have pics of this…..
It is 5:30 in the morning in Musoma, just before dawn. The Epheta center is bustling with all of us getting our last showers, last packing as we prepare for departing about 6:45.
We had a wonderful Friday, with a debriefing and listening session with Bishop Michael, followed by a lunch together (and a cake). We discussed everything from tourism and education to the role of the church and secular institutions in development, especially in the absence of significant government activity. Before and after the bishop’s events, we had last minute shopping and packing. Kazeri, Bagaka, Mama Anna and I visited the Swahili language training center to determine how to incorporate that into the course next year. It seems quite feasible.
In the afternoon, several of us, including the Gosnays, Tim, Shawn, and Jeanine and I, visited the Musoma Public Library, which turns out to be the only public library in the entire Mara Region, that is, from Lake Victoria to the Serengeti, from the border with Kenya to the Grumeti River half way between Musoma and Mwanza. It is not a big library, with lots of outdated material. We hope we can improve the quality of the holdings in the near future.
Our farewell dinner last night was a chance for the group and our hosts to come together for a celebration of what we have accomplished in our weeks together. Many of us spoke about our feelings of joy and how our personal and group families have grown in astounding and unexpected ways. Back at Epheta, we polished off a few bottles of South African wine to make sure they were not lost.
We head to Nairobi today, and will spend a few hours in touring on Sunday. Probably won’t have time to blog on Sunday, so this is likely our last blog before we return home.
We are very grateful for all of our friends and family who have supported our efforts to get here, and our donors to TDS who have made building the dormitory for girls possible.
God bless you all.
Our last work day on the dorm project was Thursday, 25 June, as we have debriefing meeting and lunch with the bishop on Friday.
The walls are rising from all of the concrete we poured on the floor. The outlines of the dividing walls for the rooms inside the dorm are visible in the pic below, taken at the beginning of the morning.
Most of our time was spent moving yet another pile of bricks onto the dorm floor so the masons can easily access them and keep building the walls. There are three more loads of bricks yet to be delivered, for a total of about 20,000 bricks! It is a good thing there are plenty of Form 4 (senior) boys and girls available to help move them. This pic shows the Form 4 boys have arrived to help move the pile onto the dorm floor. (Girls have also taken turns; they alternate days on the build with studying for the national comprehensive exams.)
The last work of the group was helping to pour the concrete foundation for the shower/toilet area at the rear of the dorm. Mama Anna (Jeanine) took one last look at the progress on the dormitory for 160 girls and was quite pleased with all that we have accomplished, both in raising the money to buy the materials, and to help actually create the foundation for taking Nyegina Secondary School to the next level of academic excellence.
We were a divided group on Wednesday. About half of us were in meetings in Musoma, while the other half worked at the dorm building site, moving more bricks to the floor so the masons can lay the walls.
Tristan and Megan were pursuing interviews of microfinance loan recipients from FINCA, as well as the state bank. Lucy Carter and Astrid interviewed with Mama Regina regarding her Women in Development Program (including the organic veggie garden). Tracey and Shawn (and Astrid) toured the disability center to see the work of that NGO in action. (They had presented at the NGO Forum for the students 2 weeks ago.)
I spent the morning discussing the development plans for the Musoma Diocese with Bishop Michael, Fr. Kazeri, and the secretary of the Development Committee, Fr. Paskos.
We conducted the final academic seminar of the study abroad tour, a final discussion of the Giles Bolton book, Africa Doesn’t Matter. We were pleased that Fr. Kazeri could join us. Altho it was mandatory for the graduate students in the tour, it was also attended by a wide range of the group, including undergrad students and most of the volunteers. That brought a wide range of perspectives to the conversation and we had lingering conversations at dinner.
The last three days have been among the highest points of the trip for me. The experience in the Serengeti Nat’l Park is something that I will never forget. The opportunity to see elephants and giraffes grazing less than a few steps outside your vehicle is hard to describe. Early yesterday morning we even had the opportunity to watch a pack of five cheetahs work their way the through the tall grass as the approached a line of zebras. Finally, my particular land rover saw an amazing sight…..a hippo out of the water crossed just a few steps in front of our vehicle and made for the high grass and water on the other side of the path providing a lasting Serengeti memory that I won’t soon forget.
Today was another high point in terms of the dorm build. The coordination issues that had troubled some of our earlier work were noticeably absent today. We also benefited from increased community support which helped our efforts to move thousands of bricks immensely. In the next three days I’m excited to visually see the outer walls of the girls dorm go up, and I’m sure it will be a little bittersweet as we say our goodbyes to everyone here in the Musoma/Nyegina community that has made our experience all the more vibrant and memorable.
Our Sunday/Monday safari into the Serengeti was a big success. We enjoyed seeing lots of animals, with twiga (giraffe), tembo (elephant), simba (lion) and leopards as highlights. Camping overnight was also very cool. Lots of pics to share on that, but slow internet suggests adding pics later.
Today was spent on the job site, moving bricks in place to build the walls tomorrow (Wednesday). The foundation layer has been placed by the technicians (fundi) and that will let us build walls quickly tomorrow. These pics show the Nyegina Secondary School board members joining the brick line on 23 June 2009. The other pic is of Mama Anna and Baba Anna working with NSS teacher Dionse on the brickline that day.
Today we go to see the animals! And they are not in a zoo. We are all excited and curious as well. The construction project has been another opportunity for us to learn
how business is conducted in a different culture. The pouring of the concrete alone has caused us to realize how life is without modern equipment. Additionally, it has
allowed us to build new relationships with more of the teachers and students. They see us visiting and laughing (most of the time) as we work together to form lines to move the
raw materials to the foundation and join us. We enjoy the chance to get to know them on a first name basis and they seem to be enjoying their time with us. Surely it can help us build our Swahili vocabulary. Yesterday the girls were working with us and next week the boys take a turn. We continue to be amazed at the warmth and faith of the people here.
We learned that Saturdays are half days for work, but not before standing around awhile waiting for the fundi to return to work with us in the afternoon!
The picture shows many in the group “wailing” on a wall inside the PC Lab, breaking off the smooth surface so plaster will adhere. It was an outside wall and is now inside the new PC lab.
Several of the group also broke off and continued to work with the fundi to pour more of the floor for the dormitory. Others worked on plastering the inside walls of the PC Lab.
Sunday morning we are off to the Serengeti!
We had a day off from construction today, but that does not mean we didn’t learn and work. Several students conducted research interviews for their
independent study projects while some visited the local nonprofit organization Community Alive. A few enjoyed the local market to find gifts to bring home.
Our seminar session in the evening focused on the first few chapters of one of the books we read to prepare us for our studies of ngos in developing nations. Several members of the
service group attended including a couple of high school students! Tomorrow we continue to practice our newly acquired “building skills”. It is truly a learning experience
to work as a team together in building without using electrical tools or equipment.
We had another long day pouring floors for the PC lab. It wasn’t nearly as fun the second day. We had less help today; the Etaro congregation was to join us but could not because there was a funeral in Etaro, which they all had to attend. Attached is a video of the concrete bucket brigade.
Still, the floors of the PC lab are now poured and curing. We hope to plaster the walls inside and out on Saturday.
We have Thursday and Friday off. Everyone is exhausted from such heavy work. In addition, some students still need interviews for their independent study projects, and Fr. Leo took take Helen and Cheryl (our nursing staff volunteers) and Jeanine and Hanna to see the regional hospital. Thursday afternoon we went to the Nyerere Museum.
Friday morning we will visit Community Alive, the center working with AIDS orphans and women. They also make cards and textiles for sale to earn revenues for the orphan girls, a center called Tupandane.
The ceremony day began with the students, teachers and community members lining either side of the road as the bus drove up the road to the school. It was a sight we will never forget. As we departed the bus we were hugged by so many people! A mass was held in the Nyegina Village Church with the Bishop presiding. The students and service group proceeded with the crowd of excited community members, students, parents, Father Leo and Bishop Michael to the tempo of drums and singing to the school sight where the ceremony took place.
Dr. Thurmaier, the Bishop, Father Leo among others spoke and led prayers and the cornerstone was unveiled. The winners of the choir contest, held on Sunday also entertained the crowd.
This is our work group at the end of a long day. We carried concrete in Chinese woks in several concrete “pail” lines to poor the floor in the PC lab and a section in the dorm. We also helped install windows in the PC lab. Too many videos to load, but lots to show when we get back home!
Kaitlin and Katie interviewed teachers and students for their independent study projects yesterday afternoon at Nyegina Secondary School.
This clip shows men laying the rocks for the floor. Next step is pouring the concrete around the rocks to make the floor, with a rebar reinforced concrete ring around the foundation.
All work is by hand, which makes it really amazing to watch.
Here is a picture of the foundation of the new dormitory. It is very big–enough for 160 girls, 2 matrons!
We will only be working on the end closest to the group in the picture.
Also, my new Tanzania phone number is
More pics to come!
We finally made it to Musoma! The group got a tour of the Nyegina Secondary School this afternoon, and its first look at the new dormitory building site–it is huge! This dorm will serve 160 girls, plus have space for matrons and the shower/toilet attached building. We will be working on one section of the building in the two weeks in June, and probably add windows and doors to the computer lab, also under construction. (It already has a roof.)
We hope to send pictures soon. The internet connection here at the Epheta center is Musoma is much more reliable than in Dar (so far).
Tomorrow we meet microfinance lenders and then students have free afternoon to pursue their independent study projects. Megan Hencke has already been meeting with people to get the UMABU website project going!
The excitement builds…
We’ve had trouble accessing internet services in Arusha. But we have some access in Dar, so hopefully students will be adding to the blog soon.
Conducting a 2 hour seminar (with break) on a moving bus down Tanzanian highways was a blast. Lively discussions which continued long after I concluded the seminar.
Despite several bumps, definitely thankful to Study Abroad staff, Deb Pierce, Anne Seitzinger, and Chris McCord for making this trip happen! Asante.
Here’s the updated contact information for
Dr. Obuya Bagaka tel: (011.254.727.498.760)
Welcome to the blog for Tanzania Development Support. Our first blog project is reporting from the study abroad to Musoma/Nyegina, Tanzania, where we will study the role of NGOs in Development and help the Nyegina community build a new dormitory for girls at the Nyegina Secondary School.